Day 15 Bridnorth to Newent

Apologies to all the people following this blog, time and plans have changed, and I needed the AWOL.

Day 15 started well, a good mood was had as we packed camp and made tea, followed by the campsite manager deferring the fee to our charities. Today was going to a comparatively easy day, extra miles had been made up the day before, and the first part was a lovely downhill. less than 60 miles to the comfort of a family home, a rest day and a well needed visit from my wife and children.

We headed out, enthusiasm at a high, with a determined goal in front of us. After a quick route foparr (didnt notice the road I sent us down to rejoin the route was 50 foot up a bridge!) and double back we were on route - 58 miles to go. We snaked through the minor roads and onto the NCN, as we followed the GPS things were gong O.K. another foparr saw us double back 200 yards, then back on track we come against a gate. Somebody's gone and built a house on my route!! A quick altercation with an angry looking man and a shotgun (ok it might have been a strimmer) saw us double backing and with no other option than to climb a rather large hill to highley. once finally up, feeling a little less than stellar we decide to rejoin the NCN, which unknown to us at this point is of the "f*#king hell are they serious!?" variety. A treacherous steep, hardcore surfaced descent later and we are back down several hundred feet still on a nightmare track. a similarly bad ascent (walked), a few irritating gates and very narrow tracks later, and we finally found tarmac. Travelling the first 5 miles of the day took hours, like literally, 3 of them. The enthusiasm felt at the start quickly diminished into one of the longest and most soul destroying days yet. The tarmac we found although wonderful in comparison wound its way along, up and down the Severn valley several times with excruciating climbs for our tired legs and loaded bikes. Our minds wandered to the family home we should have been enjoying by 5pm, 6 at the latest, wondering why we were even out here. Once the offroad tracks were completed, the roads gave no solace. After 15 miles the occasional calf cramp I had suffered with became a permanent feature, never relieving and only worsening as the day wore on. Pedaling became painful, and the hills shorter, steeper and never ending. by around the halfway mark it was already pushing onto evening, what should have been done by lunchtime was knocking on dinner times.

I broke.

I had absolutely had enough, my body worn, my legs refusing to work as I know they can, and my soul missing my home life, wife and children. The journey had ceased being the fun adventure I had wanted in the first week, and from then on I/we had looked at it as the challenge of a life time, a way to discover our limits and desires. Today, it became the challenge that was not worth it. We have learnt so much, I have learnt so much.

We pushed on (ok I wanted to go to worchester for the train, but chris forced us on!), and hill after hill pulled every last ounce of stregth and energy from us, but after what I believe was 3 days (13 hours probably more like it, but it felt longer!) we rolled into his parents, ate the best BBQ ever, had the best bath ever, and discussed the best ever plans to abandon the journey, rename it to a JOGN (john o groats to Newent), and call for a lift home the next day.

So that's what we did, and I tell you what, driving home - there aint half a lot of big hills in this country!

Anybody thinking of doing this journey, seriously consider if it's for you, if it is - great I have nothing but respect for you. Take as small a load as possible, take as many days as possible, and for the love of god don't be too afraid of smaller A roads - some of the lanes are so hilly it's nuts!

Things I have learnt:

I like cycling.
I like being fit.
I DO NOT like cycle touring (you pedal for hours and hours, and don't see F all worth seeing - nice hedges though)
The highlands are mountainous mostly boring places to be with the exception of any settlements!
Seen two Lochs seen them all (one large, one small)
All mountains look alike.
The lowlands ayrshire etc, are almost like England and quite pleasant
Lake district is GORGEOUS! and brilliant when propelled by an engine
Lancaster is a bit of a dump, and everyone looks pissed off about it
Gloucester area is hilly as F#ck
All hills look the same,
All hedges look the same
Scotland is mostly inhabited by sheep and cattle.
I am completely OK with john o groats to Newent.
I love my family, and cannot function without them for long.
I like Engines for long distance travelling - marvelous things!
Caps with a good peak obscure hidden pipes - and hidden pipes hurt!! A lot!
Motorcyclists get more elitist the further south you get.
Scottish motorists are on the whole kind and considerate.
English motorists would rather you die than them be 20 seconds later to the next queue.
Baths are amazing.
Beds are amazing.
Houses are our castles!

Day 14 middlewich to Bridnorth

A very tired and extremely grumpy trio of cyclists awoke thus morning to the searing heat if the sun. Dozily we packed our tents and belongings, skipping breakfast (well bar whatever we could source from our bar bags ), and made ready to leave. Mine of us feeling enthused and ready for the 60 miles ahead. Richard the owner of the campsite met us at the gate, wished us luck and gave us £10 towards our charities, amazing bloke. Unfortunately even this did not cure the grumps.
We made for middlewich town centre and found some hearty breakfasts in a cafe there, as well as a tescos for supplies. It must have been nearly eleven when we finally began, still miserable from the efforts previous and tired from the small rest time we had managed.
With breakfast and tea we headed first to Nantwich, a nice looking town. We continued on quite country lanes, often having the road to ourselves, and the glaring sunshine. As the afternoon sun heated up, it was a scorcher of a day! Copious amounts of sun cream have been used, and water bottles filled and drunk many times over. We stopped for elevensies 15 miles in at the side of the road, and managed upon a morrisons in market drayton for lunchtime, where a second large meal was consumed, this one with vegetables! Vegetables really are amazing when you have eaten "only beige food" for 2 weeks.
From market drayton the heat became debilitating, we hid in a shadow for probably 10 minutes before mustering the courage to venture into it. Once on the road we took full advantage of each and every morsel of shade.
This was the halfway point, and myself and Rachel were starting to feel a little brighter. Chris still looked like a teenager thats been told he can't go on an all night pub crawl. The heat made going to Telford tough going . By the way, in case you dont know, Telford is on the top of a whacking great hill! 600feet up! Jeez that was a sweat fest. Telford done, again using cycle paths as much as possible we stopped at a pub to refill the bottles again. At this point we phoned tonights campsite to double check facilities, good job too as they had none. So it was decided to do an extra 5 or 6 miles and go to stanmore touring park. So heading on we passed through ironbridge gorge. The clue was in the name really ; gorge. Very steep descent down 500 foot, then very steep ascent up 500 foot. Had to push up that one! After that we spent 7 miles on the A442 road, before another big descent to bridnorth and a garage with tescos extra. We phoned the campsite once more ti check if they had a shop or not and confirm directions. Shop shut (no prob tescos extra next to us) and only a mile or so to the campsite up a road. Excellent! Food bought we headed off. As we round the corner we see it. What they didn't say was its just over mile up a HUGE hill. Sea levelish to over 500 foot AGAIN but just about climbable with bottom gear. With a shower and the end in sight I gave that hill everything! As I got to the top and rounded the corner to the campsite I was elated and buzzing with energy.
A 5 star campsite! I didn't really know what that meant. I still dont really, But what we got was fantasticly polite service, hot powerful showers and a magic site. Theres a lake, oak trees everywhere, peacocks (out of tune ones), ducks. Its just magical.
we showered and then spent 2 hours sat on (our) picnic bench, drinking tea and chatting. I got to have a conversation on the phone with my wife, and I have finished the day feeling so much better than when I started. Even Chris managed a smile or two.
Tomorrow takes us 60 miles to Chris' parents, which means no campsite faff, proper meal at the end, and a rest day plus visits from my wife and kids on sunday. I cannot wait
Miles cycled: 67.5
Clouds seen: 4
Times bottles refilled: 4
Best foodstuff : peas (amazing!)

Day 13 glasson dock to middlewich

A short summary for today until I find more time:
Met Mike from the ctc website in garstang today, great chatting with a fellow end to ender, especially one that has recognised us!
Had great breakfast whilst there.
One biggish climb towards Wigan area.
Felt faint and dizzy, probably from heat,had to rest drink and eat.
Long day today 80 miles.
I cycled head first into a 2 foot pipe I had not seen knocking me from my steed and onto my ass.
It hurt.
A lot.
Really a lot.
We cycled various canals and cycle paths, passing through preston warrington and Runcorn barely seeing any of them (good or bad).
Rachel sat in some nettles whilst attending to business.
Our designated campsite did not have toilets or showers so we had to cycle further to find one that did.
Our day was now 87.5 miles long.
We are knackered.
The campsite owner asked to donate the fee to charity,  thanks richard from yates house camping ground!
Tomorrow is shorter.

Day 12 Troutbeck to Condor Green

Once more the sun rose and warmed the morning. We woke, packed and ate by 9am and headed west towards thirlmere. The main toad was actually fairly quiet so we opted to stay on it rather than head to the quiet (and probably hillier ) west side. We made a similar decision about windermere but unfortunately the traffic then became heavy, and even when we pulled over to let queueing traffic  pass, the english folk still felt it neccesary to wind down their windows and hurl abuse for having held them up for the last minute. But we didn't  let it hamper our mood, the area really was outstandingly beautiful. An ice cream was had somewhere pretty, and food stocks replenished in ambleside. We dreaded the climbing around windermere, but in the main road at least it was not that bad. And the descent from windermere was amazing! Easy 45mph and lasted for what felt like forever. A real spirit lifter.
However, the next part if the day, the one that we thought was going to be a breeze, was anything but. We began following minor roads out if the lakes and they became increasingly hilly as they wound their way through small villages. These hills were leg killers. Short sharp climbs with sharp descents that were unusable (brakes had to he used, and they were over before we knew it). they went on for 20 miles, they demolished my uplifted spirit as fast as they exhausted me. We felt as tired now as any other day, completely unexpected turn of events.
Once we finally made it to the lancaster canal and cycle path system, with 9 miles to go until camp, we were finished. We were pulling on the reserve reserves. Passed done. A real shame as the canal and paths are a real gem, pan flat, well surfaced fast and easy going. Being so tired though we just plodded on praying for death. Missing a lot of the beauty and glory.
While on the subject, lancastrians, the ones we passed this afternoon, are a bunch of miserable sods. We have covered 600 miles and we gave waved and said hello to almost every cyclist and pedestrian we have seen. And almost every one has responded in kind, until today. In Lancaster only 2 of the countless people we saw even looked at us.
Rant over, we made camp, but are so tired we have showered, eaten whatever was to hand (chicken roll, sausages in bap, pork chop and some cookies), and retired to bed before 8pm. I have never felt more dejected and alone on this journey as I do now. We just hope that tomorrow, the supposed flat days of the midlands starts. And is actually fairly flat!
Miles cycled:62
Biker nods reciprocated: none
Happy lancastrians on bikes:2
Times a train was considered:every half a mile after windermere

Day 11 Rest Day

The feeling of waking up this morning, warm and un hurried was magical. The clock ticked on yet we stayed firmly hidden in our tents. The hours passed and the aches faded. Some laundry was tackled and the brilliant sun dried our clothes with ease. Books were read, food was eaten. All the while our surroundings remained breath taking.
Momentarily we walked around an adjacent field, looked at the river, but decided it was too much like exercise and found ourselves back at camp relaxing within 15 minutes.

This was our rest day, and it was exactly that, restful. A Fantastic part of the world (as long as you're not cycling).

Looks like we are ready for tomorrow - lancaster here we come!

Miles cycled: none
Exercise done: almost none
Biker nods reciprocated: 1 (me in the mirror still counts right?)
Badly lit bbq: 1

Bacon sarnies are made and ready to go for the morning, see you on the flip side.

Day 10 Nr. Dumfries to Troutbeck

England! Oh how we love thee.

We awoke warm for the first time, our last night in scotland. A fantastic goodbye to an often bleak but always wonderful country. If only every stay had been this way. The day began with an apparent 500 foot climb, but we required breakfast and so detoured slightly to the Auldgirth Tea room down the hill for bacon rolls. And a gps battery change.
Once satisfied we were actually fed and rolling by 9.15, pretty darn good by our standards.  We headed out into yet more rolling scenery, with the weather on our side and legs out once more. With such easy climbs and smooth descents we were able to sustain a good pace and broke the first 15 miles before elevensies, and the second by lunchtime. Reaching dumfries and several smaller towns. Chips and meths were found in Annan and we sat in the sun enjoying the bustle around us for a while.
Soon after we reached Gretna and took the obliguratory photographs of the last/first wedding house in scotland before joyously worshipping the sign for england. We laid on the grass here at the side of the road for 15 minutes before heading to our homeland. It is here that Rachel reached her goal of completing the scottish part of the trip, so congrats go to her and we hope she will go all the way with us (not like that!)
Almost immediately we found ourself on the A6 parallel to the M6, and whilst it was not particularly pleasant with drivers blasting past at great speed and a motorway just the other side of a fence, it was reasonably flat and easy to ride on. Whilst on the subject, being back on crap english roads is luxuriously smooth compared to the diabolical excuse for a road system the scots have. Im travelling on 40c tyres at about 60 psi and at times I have been sure the bike, me or both are about to give out from the shaking. But english roads, with their questionable surfaces and occasional pot holed areas are bliss!
After a while we passed through carlisle, a city that I was convinced was scottish but apparently is in england!
The urban sprawl became more persistent, and instead of our usual 2-3 shops a day, were were seeing them every 20 minutes.
We only had another 15 miles to go, but we knew were would have to climb several hundred feet when entering the lake district. We were still on target to reach camp by 6 or 7 pm, amazingly.
A toilet stop was needed as the areas became a little more rural, and after a but aday small town presented us with the required amenities, but chris being Chris, he had taken the lead and continued to cycle off into the distance. Rachel and I did what any self respecting family member would do; we let him. Once we had sorted ourselves out and rested a bit, we eventually saw little Chris's blue hat appear. An ice cream may have been had from the coop, and lucozade sport orange decanted into an empty water bottle. (Never had before but nectar of the gods from now on! Lovely stuff). That was three sies done, now for the final leg.
The climbing in lake district was exactly as expected, hard but doable. It went up, then up steep, then up a bit more, then down down, then up. Then it repeated this 4 or 5 times relentlessly. Similar to climbing in the highlands just not on the same scale.
On the 4th repetition; something in Rachel broke. We still dont know what, her determination, her target finished,her spirit or her will to live. But whatever it was it made her eye sockets leak and reduced her cycling ability to past memories. We had to stop and regroup with only 8 miles to go. We, as it happened had reached a sleepy little village called hesket new market. A quick query to a local and the tea room / shop wad located. The breakage was pretty severe, but after 45 minutes fueling and toileting we were ok to tackle the final climb to over 850 foot and head off. We took an easier pace and made it to camp for a little after 7. Unsure if Rachel will continue on wednesday, but sure chris will complain about everything.
We checked in, Got shown to the tent area MILES from the toilet block, bought alcohol for the first time on this trip, and set camp. The surroundings are extremely picturesque and there are many views all around. And I would say, the best showers of the trip,  hot, powerful, music playing, and free!

Tomorrow a proper day of rest (apart from clothes washing anyway ) to recoup legs and give our bodies a way to catch up. Only after tomorrow will we know what Rachel will decide.

Miles cycled: 70
Lucozade sports drunk: 3
Square meals had:3 (plus a million snacks)
Jellies eaten :1 (each)
Emotional breakdowns : 1

Day 9 Troon to Nr. Dumfries

Scottish accent ; "babeh, babeh, come here babeh" que high pitched scottish bitching, "gimme me mobile, where's my Fucking mobile? Where is it? ". Que shouting and fighting and the sound of police sirens followed by "si'down on the curb, I wonni tell yous again!" This was how we were awoken at 1am this morning to the freezing cold reality that our tent was only feet away from a busy road. Combined with the throb of boy racers engines blaring at illegal speeds past our tents and we were not best set for the day ahead. Never the less we broke camp and paid for our stay (all of £1 each!) And set way southwards past Ayr on minor roads. The weather pulled through for us and it stayed dry if a little chilly. Rachel's chain fell off on the very first hill and we struggled to keep a good pace with lack of sleep and breakfast to blame.
We stopped for elevensies for 10 minutes and the sun turned up the heat enough to remove leg warmers and air our legs for the first time since fort william.
The scenery around Dalmellington was somehow familiar to us southerners and made me feel closer to home. The hard sharp mountainous peaks of days past had been replaced by lushous green fields on rolling hills. If I were to ever live in scotland (not happening) south Ayrshire looks the place for me.
The climbs today were as high as any other day, but by eating every 1.5 hours and with the weather behind us (even the wind most the time) we were able to get over them with little more than sweat and achy legs. The chorus of "argh" "ooo" "eeee " as we mounted the bikes could still be heard, but saddle sores are mostly In the past it seems -touch wood- . Towards the end of the day we rolled through a little town called Moniaive. What a wonderful place in the sun light. The buildings are works of art, the people are polite and friendly, and just the general atmosphere is fantastic. The town shop's owner even offered to put our bikes in his garage if we were going to visit for a while, as it was we just asked him to keep the shop open a few more minutes for us, which he did.
From there it was just another 9 miles to our camp for the night - glenmidge smithy. A gem of a site, small, secluded £6 a person and worth every penny. Particularly good for cycle campers as there is a good sheltered place to pitch, a toilet, a good warm shower and also a garage with everything you need. Specially when raining. Chairs and table (so you can eat like real people again!) Plug sockets for charging, a fridge, freezer, microwave, washing machine, and even an electric hob. All in the dry and free to use. Marvelous place. We even made it in good time, 6pm!

Tomorrow we enter England, and we are all excited. Not least because tuesday is a rest day and we will be able to wash our clothes! But also because it marks our half way point in days and also distance.

Miles cycled: 62
Times "natures toilet" used: 7
Biker nods reciprocated: 6
Annual village fares missed by one day: 1 (Carsphairn)
Showers had: 2 (to make up for yesterday)

Pictures to follow, am off grid tonight.