Day 7 Oban to Lochgilphead

A cold chill could be felt in the tent this morning. Gone was the balmy heat of the previous evening, and back was the gloom of previous days. A slight lay in was had as nobody wanted to venture outside of the relative warmth of the sleeping bags.
Once outside one thing was clear, the midges were also up, and they were hungry! The experience was one I had not had before, and Chris seemed to suffer the worst! I have never seen him move so fast as he did this morning to escape them. Bacon was cooked, tea drunk, and camp dropped and rolling by about 10am.
It started to rain.
All of a sudden we were even more grateful for having done some miles yesterday, as it meant less time in the miserable drab that was today. We set off and soon reached the point just outside oban where our route took a left onto a single lane road to the west. A quick "do you want to go to oban for supplies? " was asked, but Chris insisted on "cracking out the miles". So we forged on. The road was a bit up and downy and contained the first of our 3 major climbs of the day. About 350 foot or so up. We dealt with this and rejoined the main road feeling fairly pleased.
after a while hunger started to set in, and we hadn't seem so much as a shop, let alone a cafe or fish n chip shop. The miles were racking up and after we found a 4 star hotel for Rachel to pee in, we decided to eat the ham rolls I had sorted at the campsite.
Partial lunch done we continued and found the second climb of the day. This one was tougher, some swearing was heard - ok a lot was heard. But again we triumphed and on the long descent after; we spotted a sign for a cafe ahead, genius!
Sure enough it appeared and we entered the cafe, err...wait, its a shop "this the cafe?" "No lovey, tis a shop"  ..."but..." ,  "only pulling ye leg, tis up them stairs"!
Finally! Chip time. Except it was a posh cafe, so more like soup and cake time. Extremely tasty all the same and well needed. We bought some supplies in the shop and asked about the road ahead. The lovely lady informed us that the road got "1st gear in the car" steep at Adfern but once over it was pretty good. This frightened us. And indeed the climb of 550 or so was signed up as 1 in 8, and was nasty as you like. Some pushing was required (ironically not the 1 in 8 bit). Once over the top sure enough the road became alot more forgiving, and the last few miles into Lochgilphead itself were pan flat. The sun also put in an appearance,  shame it was still freezing.
We arrived at 5.15pm a record - shops were still open and everything. Quick shower, and we went for fish and chips in town, for which many birds surrounded us for a chance if getting one. One in particular seemed to be "top bird". We watched him bully the others for a bit, and gave him a scrap chip for his efforts, before retiring back to camp.
Miles cycled: 48
Biker nods reciprocated : 3 (not the best)
Smug Scotsmen driving over hilly terrain: 2 (I would be too)
Funniest moment if day: Chris very nearly adding meths to his tea instead of milk.

Day 6 - Rest day....Fort William to oban

Today was down as a rest day. One to spend catching up with my wife and son, and relaxing. It started with us making our way to the B&B to collect them. From there we went for a walk down the high street, browsed the shops and ate breakfast/lunch at the Wetherspoons. Souvenirs were bought, and I had a great time with my family.
As it turned out they had to leave fort william at 2.15pm to make the coach in inverness.
This gave Chris an idea; why not knock off 20 miles from the 85 miler tomorrow - today? For once I couldn't fault the thought. We had been dreading the 85 mile day and this was a perfectly sane way of alleviating this. Some would say even, a good idea!
So once I had said my tearful goodbyes at the departing bus, we set about dropping camp and attempting to reach oban club site (which google reckoned was 21 miles away) before dinner. After all the sun was beaming and temperatures were 'jesus it's hot!' A fight with the gps later and we had directions for 11 miles in the right direction and would re check route once done. At the 11 mile mark it became apparent that google's estimated 21 miles was fishy - a sign said oban 33 miles! A bit of fishing around and route fiddling and it was actually going to be another 25 miles!
Feeling good we thought that would be fine, after all we are used to late nights now, and it was only actually about 5pm. Early by our standards. We travelled along the a82 and a828, both of which were reasonably flat and smooth, if somewhat hair raising when a lorry barrelled past at full bore. The scenery was lovely and Rachel's chain only fell off the once.
We made it to oban caravan and camping club site for a little after 7 and the owners were very kind to open up shop for us to buy food for dinner and breakfast. Decent showers were had before we were nearly eaten alive by the prolific midges who seem to love this walled in campsite.
Only 48 miles to do tomorrow now.

Unplanned Miles cycled: 37
Biker nods reciprocated: 3
Postcards Rachel sent to herself: 1

Pictures to follow as signal is very poor here.

Day 5 - climb Ben Nevis

The day began with a rude 7am awakening in the shape of a Scotsman demanding money, not what you want really. As we had arrived so late last night, we were unable to book in and pay on arrival. After I informed him we were staying 3 nights, and promised to go to reception and pay up within an hour he buggered off and let me catch a bit more sleep.
As last night had dragged on so much I had missed the opportunity to see my wife and son, so was doubly excited to see them this morning. I arranged for them to walk from the b&b a mile up the road to the campsite and after the best hug in the world....ever, we had a nice cuppa, chnaged into the clean clothes she bought us, before stocking up supplies and heading off to "the Ben".
Our legs were still pretty shot from yesterday and so we decided to do what we could, maybe a little extra, and then call it quits. Off we trundled to the tourist path in what actually was glorious sunshine. Evidently my wife thought we were in short supply and so brought some from down south. After crossing and impressively bouncy suspension bridge over the Nevis river we set off to the mountain. The path quickly became rocky and steep, and our thighs quickly let us know we were taking the lucky! Still we had decided we would like to do half way if possible and pressed them into painful service. My son marcus (12) pretty much demolished the path on front of him, whilst us invalids (and my wife) struggled along behind. After a couple of hours we stopped on some rocks for a high altitude lunch and discovered about the loch half way up, and decided to make that the target. Another 30 mins or so and were were there. In agony but accomplished. Shame we still had to get back down! That part was agony tenfold, progress was so slow. Added to the achy legs was a partial twisted ankle for chris and blisters for me. Rachel it seemed was escaping the agony today as she led the way unwaveringly.

Once that was over we ate a nice meal at the restaurant just outside the site. Thankfully tents are already pitched and gear unloaded, so we just took the opportunity to do our, frankly, pretty minging washing. Soo nice to have clean clothes again!

Miles cycled: none.
Biker nods reciprocated: none
Mountains climbed: 1/2

Day 4 - Inverness to fort william

Apologies for the delay, has been difficult finding time to blog.

We knew we had a long day today, but it proved longer than even we feared. We broke camp and departed the lovely bunchcrew site a little late at 9.30 and headed into inverness for breakfast and to meet my wife and son who were due to arrive there at 10. A gentle mostly flat ride saw us there in good time and we headed to the bus station. Unfortunately it soon became apparent that the coach was running late and they wouldn't arrive for at least another hour so we made for mcdonalds for breakfast. I enjoyed a lovely bacon roll, so nice in fact I thought I could eat another. So I did. Just as the second roll was devoured, a man (some would say heroin addict, drunk) fell right in front of the bikes we were watching through the window and proceeded to have a fit. Then another. So a frantic 999 call and some waiting around later and the day was even later as we set off. Its worth mentioning before leaving inverness, that it really is a nice town centre. The buildings are fantastic pieces of architecture and on the whole the inhabitants are genuinely friendly and welcoming.
After Inverness we headed for the quiet side of loch ness which involved quite a pleasent road and many good views of the loch. This was some what spoiled by the nagging voices in our heads that knew, they knew that sometime in the first 20 miles the road would point up and continue up until 1200 feet or so. Sure enough the road started to climb sometime before foyers, and the road to upper foyers (dont go lower!) Was walking material, very very steep. Once we had pushed our way to the top the gps registered 450 feet and we stopped for chips and supplies. The foyer falls are a short walk from here. We wrote our john o groats postcards, I ate a magnum! And we ordered our chips. We were informed of a small wait. We waited. And waited. After about 25 minutes the lovely lady from the cafe arrived.....and asked "what was it you wanted?" Oh. Dear. So after about an hour or so we set off to tackle the other 800 foot. If only it was a straight climb, but everynow and again an irritating descent scrubbed off 100 feet or so. We toiled for what seemed like, and probably was - hours. A relentless climb we finally rounded a corner at 1000 feet to see the top and decided to make it up there and stop for food and pictures. Another 15 minutes or so saw us reach the summit at 1295 feet. We stopped and contemplated picnic and pictures for all of 3 seconds before the howling southerly wind nearly threw us all down the mountainside and decided better of it. We headed down 200 foot or so before stopping at a dead calm loch tas for food. Feeling accomplished we pushed on to fort Augustus where we joined the canal path which made for interesting and good progress, if a little bumpy. Pleasant waves from passing boats and fellow cyclists. All in all - a nice interlude. So when we came off the path and the gps pointed out to continue on the other side we gladly obliged. The path began well and we thought we were in for a further treat. How wrong were we! The path (great glen way) soon degraded to, in the end, a path only suitable for mountain bikes, of the unloaded 'gnarly' variety. It was hard and slow going. Some real technical terrain. After 3 miles or so we decided to break for some 'dinner' from the panniers. Some slugs narrowly avoided being sat on And nourishment was had. After our food stop we pushed on until the path reached a tarmacked road. At this point it looked as if the great glen way would continue with a better quality path so we crossed a lock and carried on. Unfortunately after a half mile or so the mountain track returned and to make matters more interesting, rachels shoe cleat decided to lose a bolt some where and came loose making it impossible to clip in or out. One hasty repair involving the un used bolts from chris' shoe and we elected to double back (about 8pm by now) and join the A82. This, at this time of the evening was actually quote pleasant. Dead smooth tarmac we were able to get up a good speed. We made good rime for a while until a random 500 foot climb, but even this was dealt with ok. Eventually we found a way back on track and the gps informed us we had 10 miles left. Chris and i were spent, and rachel all but dead. We pressed on. And on. Finally we saw fort william and fist bumped the air in triumph. Before wearily cycling the final 2 miles to the glen Nevis campsite. 10:30 we rolled in and began to set camp. After a shower and unload, bed was seen at 12.15.

That was a long long day. 13 hours from camp to camp.

Miles cycled: 73.5
Biker nods reciprocated: 19
Times loo roll used in haste: many

Day 3 - Lairg to Inverness

This morning we were reminded of his wonderful our location was. Dunroamin campsite is staffed by some of the friendliest people we have met. We packed up camp and enjoyed a warm breakfast in their lovely little restaurant. Great experience - the food was great (best black pudding ever according to Chris ) it was warm (very important ), and they even had various puzzles on the tables to amuse yourself whilst waiting (think Rubik  snake, wooden puzzle boxes etc). Cannot praise them enough. After a hearty breakfast we managed to get away by about 10 or so and set off south for Bonar bridge where we were assured there would be a corner shop with meths.
The wind this morning was a howling southerly again - right in our faces. This hampered our progress somewhat,but it was mostly downhill for the first leg to bonar bridge so we were feeling quite good despite the weather. Sure enough there was a spa for food and cash, and a little corner shop that was quite literally amazing. You could buy ANYTHING there. Stacked floor to ceiling with barely a space to spare was everything you could ever need for house or garden, and yes, meths.
Shopping needs satisfied - particularly nibbles for mid ride, we headed off in search of alness to the south. Between bonar and alness something awful happened, ok 3 awful things happened. First the land scape turned back to the open boggy heathland of the hills again, affording us no protection from the 30 mph head winds once again reducing us to peddling down hills at an excruciating rate. Second the road climbed to over 800 feet in a relentless steep ascent. Third it started to rain half way up. Together these things created more swearing than ever before. I cannot stress enough how hard it was, and with the "weather" as the locals call it, it looked shit as well! We were not going to make it anywhere for our chip lunch, so gave in only 50 feet from the top(unbeknownst to us) and ate the supplies bought at the spa earlier. It took hours to get down to the coast, but once we did the climbing eased somewhat, and the terrain became more rolling, much nicer.
This continued for quite a few miles with few "deal breaker" climbs (there was one 12% that we said fuck it to and walked) we made dingwall for about dinner time so decided to search for the chip supper we had been craving for two days. A little old scottish lady gave us directions to the chippy - finally! We were going to get them. Closed. Open everyday except MONDAYS,  for pities sake! Not to worry though, a tescos  was around the corner and not only had the chip suppers, but also some more warm socks for me!
BIG tescos meal later we set off once more, deciding to skip Kessock bridge on account of reported road works and instead headed to Muir Of Ord and then Beauly. More rolling scenery, with some hard ish climbs but not too steep saw us head east towards inverness. We rolled into bunchcrew campsite about 7.15 feeling much better than earlier on in the day. The combination of good food, nicer terrain, and most importantly the weather broke, the wind died right back and the sun shone from dingwall onwards. Amazing what a difference NOT having a strong wind against you makes.
Nobody at the campsite to book in but instructions on the office door to write our names on a board and pay in the morning. We rolled down to the waters edge to the pitches and oh my god WHAT a view. With the sun out what a dramatic location. I at least began to smile again, this is a wonderful place and life is alright again. At least thats what I thought until I saw the climb profile for tomorrow. A long climb from sea level to 1200 feet. Shit. Thats a story for another day, right now im good. Also, best hot shower yet, and free too!

Worth mentioning that for two days the lucky cat has been heard bringing up the rear, but we have been too exhausted to even muster the energy to moan. Also - Chris has not been grumpy! Wonders never cease.

At least the forecast (if you can believe it) looks better over the next few days.

Miles cycled:56.9
Hills: one fuck off big one, and some others.
Biker nods reciprocated: 6 (motorcycles)
Chains fallen off: Rachel - 2, Chris - 2.

Day 2 - Thurso to Lairg

We awoke after a surprisingly good sleep, nestled out of wind at the Thurso campsite, a few cuppas were had and we hoped to break camp by 9am.
9.45 was the reality thanks to some enthusiastic repacking by Rachel, but at least we were feeling good, the sun was out, and we were rolling. The very first thing we had to do was climb for what seemed like miles, this was then demolished in a far too short descent back to see level, only to be repeated several hundred times over. The terrain was mountainous and fairly bland (what we could see of it through the sweat anyway). Sheep are everywhere, as are quite a few birds we couldn't recognise. The terrain took a toll on us early on, and by the time we reached bettyhill we would have gladly have taken a lift home. We decided t o have a chip lunch, but on sunday the small town was closed for business, so settled for the lunch in our panniers (from lidls yesterday).
After that was done we began the demoralising journey in land to loch naver. More brutal terrain had us stopping and cursing often and by this time the wind had turned on us and began to pick up. By the time we reached the road alongside the loch, all the days climbing had jellified our legs so much that the gentle (comparatively ) undulations felt like massive climbs, and the wind meant we struggled to hold 9 mph DOWN hill. For hours we struggled on, contemplating throwing in the towel.
A fella at a campsite along loch naver assured us that after A hill, we would see the Crask inn, and then it would be downhill all the way to lairg. He lied. Or scottish people dont understand the word all,or downhill. In the end we arrived at dunroamin campsite at 8.25pm, exhausted but not defeated. The campsite by the way is fantastic, £8 for a 2 man tent, warm showers, clean facilities and a great site in a sheltered quiet spot. Picnic benches too.
A warm shower has been had, hasty blog post done, and now its time to pass out.

Miles: 75
Roadkill: 1 crow
Hills: nothing but!

Day 1 - Thurso to Thurso

Today began promisingly, sun was shining the train was easy enough. Bike racks once more in the coach entrances, although the inverness to wick train was some what smaller! We boarded and settled in for a long train journey once more. 4 hours later with aches backs again from the seats we arrived in a blue skied sunny Thurso. The sun helped keep us warm, although up here on the coast the sea breeze is still bitter cold.

We headed straight for the Thurso camping ground, booked in and set up camp. Rachel immediately tried to reverse our efforts by clumsily tripping over several of our luminously coloured guy lines. Once camp was saved from her efforts we headed into Thurso town to forage for lunch. Thurso itself is quite a nice little place and a bakery visit for pies, sausage rolls and cake soon sorted lunch. There was nothing for it, other than to actually start the behemoth of a journey. So we turned east and set cycle for john o groats. We passed through several quaint little villages and towns along the way, and as chris will tell you this involved many a long drawn out hill. Chris doesn't like hills. I'm not sure he understands that very few people do. The sun continued to beat on us for the while journey and depending on wind exposure (of which there was plenty) we flitted between warm and freezing - so clothing changed a few times.

Upon arriving at john o groats, a miserable, dreary place by all accounts - we were pleasantly surprised to find an admittedly basic, but all round quite nice place. In the sunshine it was pleasant to sit on the bench by the gift shop and have a portion of chips. Also, the apparently moody Photographer was a joy to talk to, and once we had paid 9 quid he was happy to take a picture of the 3 of us to send home, and also was happy to use my own good camera and take another for the blog! All being as it was john o groats was a fine part of the day.

But then, then came the rest. We decided on the advice of others before us to take in duncasby head, and dunnet head while we were at it. Now all I can say is - for us novice cyclists the climb to the first was leg destroying, and the climb to the second took our souls as well! Unless you like lighthouses the view from either is nothing special. The best view for dinner head in fact is a lovely one you see quite early on the detour. A fantastic rocky bay in your right.  Best to turn round once you see it as the rest is pretty pointless unless you just want the bragging fights as we did!
Anyway the upshot was plenty of swearing and three very tired campers. Once we finally made it BACK to Thurso (yes its demoralising cycling for a whole day and going no where) we went to the lidls across the road and bought dinner (beans and sausages - best beans EVER as certified by Chris and I) once cooked and devoured we decided to brave the showers (its freezing - technical term - here this evening!) The toilet block although clean, doesn't have any heating on - we think ths locals consider this ungodly weather to you be an acceptable summer. The shower literally had to he set to dribble to get any warmth! More swearing occurred.

All in all the weather was as good as we could have got, but its still the north coast and cold. Many trees are still just starting to come into leave.

Rachels lucky cat was fairly silent today, we are convinced its still a liability, but benefit of the doubt has been given for now.

Miles cycled: 53

Celebrities we are convinced to have seen:
Jo Brand in a silver Nissan Micra
Sean Bean in a white van

Hills: too many.

Day 0

Our goodbyes were said and we embarked on the Gosport to portsmouth ferry. 8.30am and all of a sudden planning met reality with a harsh thud (or was it an irritating jingle?). Our first train journey with bikes, and my first actual train journey since being a teenager, went surprisingly well. Southern trains had a 5 coach train laid on to london waterloo, and both the middle coaches had an integrated 3 bike rack at the entrance to the seating area. No trouble at all to load the bikes onto (minus a couple of panniers). We then sat where we could keep a glancing eye on them.

Trains are not what they used to be! Ours seemed gleaming, clean, fast and very very smooth and quiet.
Once we reached london we had to cycle to kings cross, the first proper usage of my bought for purpose etrex 20 (after using the toilets anyway - THIRTY PENCE!). The etrex was great - I only wish the same could be said for the london roads/traffic. Hectic and poorly planned pretty much describes it, the many buses and taxis can be a little scary at times. Combine this with the irritating jingle from the "lucky cat" Rachel  has decided to attach to her bar bag, and homicidal was mentioned a few times, it might as well be a cow bell! but we made it all the same.

The train to inverness was PACKED.  Without reservations it would have been hell. So glad are we that we did! The bikes on this one went into front wheel hanging racks in the guard carriage, again no problems. We had to remove the panniers but were allowed to store them on the ground with the bikes. This train journey was LONG, it seemed to never end. Progress was fast out of london, but got slower the further north we went. The scenery was fantastic, although the snow capped mountains were a bit worrying as we plan to be up Ben Nevis in a few days time.

Rachel nearly killed me twice, once whilst passing wind (the toxin spread to others too) and also every time she produced an "essential travel item" - i nearly died of laughter over this a few times. Needless to say we have differing ideas of "essential" and "travel".

Once we finally reached inverness, we alighted and reloaded the bikes before heading of for a quick very pleasant (although chilly) ride along the river to our premier inn. Nothing to fault there its cosy, comfy and best of all bikes in rooms was not discouraged.

Stay tuned for the real start tomorrow, and wish us luck! (We will need it, as the lucky cow bell, I mean cat, is unlikely to make it past the first 10 miles.)

The night before we leave

What have we let ourselves in for?!!

I have now repacked for the third time now, and I am still missing some bits.. But also thinking I am taking too much.... What a surprise; being female.

We have used bungee cord to attach our canes, for when we find a martial arts site to train in. Not only that when we go up Ben Nevis these will be very helpful in the hike.

This is the last night we will be in our own beds.

What have we let ourselves in for?!!

bikes loaded